Creative Pattern Cutting - Drafting the Bodies 2D & 3D

-

 

Creative Studio 

Session One – Creative Pattern Cutting


Drafting a Bodies form measurements – 2D
Pattern drafting is creating paper pattern pieces of a garment form body measurements. First, the pattern designer will create simple bodies to make it fit the persons measurements and develop further to the final design.
 
 
What is a pattern?
A pattern is a template to sew a garment is a specific shape and size, usually the pattern pieces are made from paper. Sewing patterns are made of several pieces that later are cut out of fabric and sewn together to form a garment. Sewing patterns always come with markings and notches to let people know which part goes where.
 A number of pattern pieces depends on the design of the garment. On the pieces there will be a note indicating by the name of the piece, how many pieces need to be cut, whether they should be cut on fold or two separate pieces. Most of the instructions how to sew the garment can be found on the pattern pieces, the placement of the zipper, buttons, gathers, what seam it needs to be and the seam allowance when sewing, usually it is 1cm seam allowance.
 Patterns usually come with written instruction in a form of a ‘Method of Making’ booklet, which it informs the person making the garment how to make the garment by step by step instructions, the different seams, and decorative technique that will be needed. (SilverBobbin.com,2021)
 
 
Figure 1 Bina Abling, Kathleen Maggio Bloomburyfashioncentral. (2009). Integrating Draping, Drafting, and Drawing [Diagram]. eBook. https://www-bloomsburyfashioncentral-com.libaccess.hud.ac.uk/products/fairchild-books-library/book/integrating-draping-drafting-and-drawing/bodice
 
 In one of our sessions, we have drafted a basic body from our own measurements, teaching us how we need to take measurements form our clients in the future to create a garment made to fit. ‘’ Taking accurate body measurements is one of the keys to great fit’’. (ClothingPattern101.com, 2012-2021)
 
Measuring the Dress form:
 
  1. Centre front length (base of neck to waist)
  2. Bust circumference (fullest part at bust level).
    Pin tape parallel to the floor
  3. Front neck to bust level
  4. ½bust circumference CF to CB
  5. Side seam (waist to 1” below arm plate)
  6. Back neck to bust level
  7. Centre back length (base of neck to waist)
  8. Back shoulder, neck to waist
  9. Across back shoulder (armhole to armhole)
  10. Back waist to shoulder (1” from CB waist to end of shoulder)
  11. Back shoulder (base of neck to end of shoulder)
  12. Front shoulder neck to waist
  13. Across front chest

  15. Front waist to shoulder
  16. Front shoulder length
  17. Bust point to bust point
  18. Waist circumference
  19. Across back
Using the step-by-step guide form the book ‘Integrating Draping, Drafting and Drawing’ we stared to draft the basic bodies made to fit our body measurements.
After drafting the bodies 2D on drafting paper, started to trace the pieces from draft master pattern on to a new piece of paper adding 1cm seam allowance and cutting out to create a template piece to cut out form fabric. Sew the bodies together, to see if any adjustments need to make to the pattern to be perfect fit.



 





 After fitting make markings on the bodies to make the adjustments. For my personal bodies the neckline, bust line, and armhole needed some adjustments. Lay the fabric bodies flat and go back to the draft master pattern to make the notes and adjustments to create new pattern pieces.

* For bigger bust book directions may not work well as the directions are     for a small sample size (size 10). With bigger size there will need to be     adjustments after draft drafting the bodies.


 






 

 

 

 

 Draping the bodies (size 10)


Draping Definition

‘’Draping is a technique that allows the designer to immediately see how their garment looks as well as gives them free rein to rearrange and play with the design before anything is stitched together.’’ (S, Triplett, 2019)

 

Tape the Dress Form

  • Bust
  • Centre front and centre back
  • Princess lines
  • Side seam
  • Base of the neckline
  • Shoulder seam
  • Shoulder blade level (4” down from neckline at CB)
  • Armhole ridge







After all the seams are taped it’s time to prepare the fabric for draping.
e.g.

FRONT

Measure CF  Neck ban --> Waistline =45cm

*Add 12.5cm/13cm

                     = 58cm  (length)

 

Bust line --> Side Seam =23.5cm

*Add 12.5cm/13cm

                                        = 36.5cm (width)

BACK

Measure CB --> Neck ban to waistline

46cm + 12.5cm/13cm

=59cm (length)

 

CB --> side seam

20.5cm + 12.5cm/13cm

=33.5cm (width)

 

*Fold 2.5cm from CF and CB and press to the inside.

(B.Abling, K. Maggio, 2009)

Following the step-by-step guid line form the book ‘Integrating Draping, Drafting and Drawing’ star to drape the basic bodies. After the bodies is draped and marked correctly, take of the fabric and press, lay flat on the drafting paper and trace the pattern using the tracing wheel, creating a pattern piece for a basic bodies. Using the pattern master adjust the lines. At the end add 1cm seam allowance and cut form fabric and sew.




 

 

Reference

 

  1. ClothingPatterns101.com. (2012-2021). How to Take Body Measurements for Perfect Fit. ClothingPattern101. https://www.clothingpatterns101.com/body-measurements.html 

  2.  Silver Bobbin.com. (2021). Pattern Drafting: A Beginner’s Guide on How to Draft Patterns. Silver Bobbin. https://silverbobbin.com/pattern-drafting/  

  3. Figure 1 - Bina Abling , Kathleen Maggio Bloomburyfashioncentral. (2009). Integrating Draping, Drafting, and Drawing [Digram]. ebook. https://www-bloomsburyfashioncentral-com.libaccess.hud.ac.uk/products/fairchild-books-library/book/integrating-draping-drafting-and-drawing/bodice

  4.      Bina Abling , Kathleen Maggio Bloomburyfashioncentral. (2009). Integrating Draping, Drafting, and Drawing. eBook. https://www-bloomsburyfashioncentral-com.libaccess.hud.ac.uk/products/fairchild-books-library/book/integrating-draping-drafting-and-drawing/bodice

  5. (S,Triplett . (2019). 2 – BEGINNER DRAPING: HOW TO DRAPE A BASIC BODICE. Mood SewCiety. https://www.moodfabrics.com/blog/beginner-draping-how-to-drape-a-basic-bodice/)

Comments

Post a Comment

Popular posts from this blog

What is Zero Waste?

-
Image
Creative Studio What is ZERO WASTE FASHION? Over the years zero waste living became a quickly growing trend as the awareness of the waste produced and our global waste and plastic pollution as increased and more people are aware of the effect it has on our environment.   What is zero waste fashion?   Currently waste management system is mostly concentration on reduce, reuse, and recycle rather than eliminating waste altogether.  Zero waste fashion compared to other zero waste products is that zero waste aspects start with the design and the production stage and other products are on the use stage where the items are being reused or repurposed to a different object.   ‘’Zero waste fashion is about using existing materials to their full capacity and not producing textile or other material waste.’’  (Elizabeth,2020. 2nd Ed) Fashion is always reusable, unless is a poorly made fast fashion item that is warn once and tossed out. Zero waste fashion is m...
Read more

Workshop - Arduino

-
Image
  Creative Studio  Workshop – Arduino What is Arduino? - ‘’Arduino is an open-source electronics platform based on easy-to-use hardware and software.  Arduino boards  can read inputs - light on a sensor, a finger on a button, or a Twitter message - and turn it into an output - activating a motor, turning on an LED, publishing something online. You can tell your board what to do by sending a set of instructions to the microcontroller on the board’’. (Arduino,2021) Wearable Electronics? Over the years electronics have become more of a fashion piece rather than practical technology, such as smart watches. But what if we combine fashion and electronics? After the session on Arduino and creating a small electric circuit to make a LED light flash and create a simple code using the Arduino software, made me think how that could be developed and combined with fashion. A lot of fashion designer use electronics for aesthetic, lighting, but what if...
Read more

Optitex

-
Image
 Creative Studio Optitex What is OPTITEX?  - ‘’Optitex is a computer fashion design software for designing with 2D and 3D visuals, but also allows you to create pattern pieces or layout plans to check the efficiency of the material used.’’ Optitex allows apparel designers to create, alter, and manipulate the garment pattern pieces. But also conduct visual garment fit which is great to see how the garment would look like before the production. It allows you to digitise your pattern pieces or create new pieces in the software. This CAD software allows you to see the garment 3D on an avatar, to see the movement, the fit of the garment. It’s a very interesting way to see the garment before the production and sampling. Also, it would be interesting way to present your ideas to a group and showcase your designs.  Optitex also allows you to create lay out plans. Select the size of your fabric, digitise your pattern pieces using the Digi pen and paper and lay out all your piece...
Read more